The Gorges of Crete (Greece)

October 1 - 8, 2010

Crete was inhabited from 6,000 BC by the Minoans, a creative people that built palaces and traded with surrounding islands and Egypt. However, the Minoan civilization was destroyed by a natural catastrophe (possibly an earthquake) in about 1,500 BC and then Crete successively became part of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, the Venetian Republic and the Ottoman Empire. The Ottoman occupation launched 100 years of rebellion against Turkish domination. Crete unified with mainland Greece in 1913.

In addition to its often brutal history Crete is located near a subduction (sinking) zone of the Aegean Sea tectonic plate and its Libyan (south) coast is scared by huge gorges caused by the combination of plate tectonics and river water erosion. The most famous of these is Samaria Gorge. The descent from Omalos plateau to the sea attracts 150,000 hikers a year and is, arguably, the most popular hike in Europe.

We will hike Samaria Gorge and then take the E4 coastal trail eastward to hike Aradena and Imbros Gorges.

This is a trip for fit and experienced hikers as trails are often rough and exposed, some scrambling is necessary and, even in October, temperatures can be 30 deg.C

Day 1 - We meet in Chania in western Crete. Chania (pronounced “hania”) is serviced by several airlines both regular and charter or you can take the overnight ANEK Line ferry from Pireas (seaport for Athens). Our hotel is near the entrance to the old city so come early and explore its narrow streets, restaurants and historic fortifications.

Day 2 - Up early to catch the bus to the Omalos Plateau. We drop our luggage at our hotel and shuttle to the entrance of the Samaria Gorge at Xyloscala. We lead a warm-up hike up 560 meters to a saddle on Mount Gingilos on a well marked trail. From this point you can see both the Aegean Sea to the north and the Libyan Sea to the south. You may see Griffon vultures circling overhead and, if you are lucky, perhaps even a Lammergeier or bearded vulture the largest bird in Europe. Back to the hotel to prepare for day 3. (see note below)

Day 3 - Shuttle back to Xyloscala and hike the gorge of Samaria. The well travelled path descends 1,236 meters over a distance of 16.7 Km and it takes 7 + hours to reach the sea at the town of Agia Roumeli. We take our time as there are species of rare flowers and trees along the shaded path that should not be missed. Water is not a problem as there are 6 refreshing springs spaced along the descent. The abandoned village of Samaria is located at km 6.5 at an elevation of 400 meters and is a good place for lunch and perhaps to see the endangered Cretan Ibex scrounging for food. Below the old village the gorge narrows and the walls rise to more than 500 meters in what is called the “Iron Gates”. The coastal ferry waits at the sea and takes the vast majority of hikers away. We spend the night in the town of Agia Roumeli.

Day 4 -Today we follow the well marked E4 coastal path 6 hours to the beautiful white village of Loutro. The trail starts over sand dunes and along the beach or a little higher under pine trees. At 3.5 Km it passes a taverna and the chapel of Aghios Pavlos where Saint Paul is reputed to have landed. For the next 2 km the trail is shaded by a cool pine forest but then climbs out of the trees to a barren 4 km section with very little shade. Just when you are convinced it will never end you turn a corner and see beautiful Mamara Beach with a busy taverna. The 3 km of trail beyond Mamara has some ups and downs but we soon find ourselves descending past a Turkish fort to Loutro and our hotel for two nights.

Day 5 - A long day starting with an early boat ride back to Mamara Beach to hike up Aradena Gorge down the road to Anapoli and back to Loutro passing Aghia Ekaterini (Saint Katherine) chapel. Aradena is a beautiful gorge and far less busy than Samaria. From sea level it climbs 580 meters over 5.5 km to an imposing Bailey bridge that we cross to a refreshment stand. Refreshed, we walk 2.5 km down the road to Anapoli turn right at the statue of Daskalogiannas (a hero of the war against the Turks) and climb 50 meters to Aghia Ekaterini. The trail back to Loutro descends 650 meters over 3.8 km and is exposed and rough with many switchbacks. A swim at Loutro is most welcome.

Day 6 - We leave Loutro and hike to Chora Sfakion via interesting Sweetwater Beach. The trail is mainly level for 2.8 km to Sweetwater Beach where it is possible to dig a hole in the sand and find fresh water. Beyond the beach the E4 climbs 150 meters in 1.5 km to intersect the road from Anapoli. We walk down the road 2.5 km to Chora Sfakion for two nights.

Day 7 - Bus to the upper end of Imbros Gorge down the gorge and then back to Chora Sfakion. A 30 minute bus ride brings us to the top of Imbros Gorge. We descend 620 meters over 6 km on a trail that is barely a meter wide in places. Imbros is famous as the escape route used by British and Greek forces after the battle for Crete in 1941. Thousands of troops used the gorge to access the harbour at Sfakion and the ships of Admiral Cunningham RN. The current highway was not built until the 1960s. This evening Natural Outings will host a celebration dinner.

Day 8 - Bus to Chania where our trip ends

Note: The luggage problem
There is no road along the south coast of Crete from Aghia Roumeli to Chora Sfakion so we have to carry whatever we need to survive for three nights (day 3 to day 6) down Samaria Gorge and along the E4. This is not a great hardship since quick dry garments washed in the evening will be very dry by morning. Our other piece of luggage will be transferred by ship from a harbour up the coast to our hotel in Chora Sfakion and we will be reunited on day 6

We suggest each participant bring a daypack rated at 25 litres and wear a sun hat, short sleeve top, hiking pants, boots and carry trekking poles and a lunch when we leave the hotel on day 3.

The day pack can contain:

•  Personal medications, lip balm, shaving gear, soap, shampoo and sun block in 100ml bottles
•  2 one litre water bottles
•  Spare - top, socks, undergarments, shorts, and bathing suit, bath towel, rubber sandals
•  Camera, small baggie containing 1/2 cup of detergent for cloths washing

Land cost, $1,448 from Chania includes guided hiking, luggage transfer, bus fares, park fees, hotel accommodation (double occupancy), breakfasts local style and a celebration dinner.

Although every effort will be made to adhere to the above program, changes may be necessary due to unforeseen circumstances

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